1. In a narrow lane, one of three that branches off to the east from the roundabout at Maheshwari Udyan in Mumbai’s central area of Matunga, there stands an unassuming eatery. A few steps lead into it. The space is not large: a few tables at the entry level with the proprietor at a high seat at the counter to the right of the entrance. Opposite the entrance is the kitchen with its serving hatches. A steep staircase to the left leads to a low-ceilinged mezzanine floor. Here, the space is even more cramped. On both levels, patrons share tables: large groups or families may spread across several tables and a solitary diner may find himself rubbing elbows with a complete stranger. This is Café Madras, the South Indian — or, more accurately, Udipi cuisine — specialty sit-down restaurant owned and managed by the Plaintiffs (“ the Kamaths ”), and it is both popular and renowned. Over time, it has acquired, say the Kamaths, a reputation non-pareil : the Kamaths pride themselves on the quality of their fare, traditional and authentic they say in every aspect, and the cleanliness of their kitchen. It is by no means a five-star establishment, and has no such pretensions. There is no fancy dinnerware (everyone has clean stainless steel) or table linen (paper napkins must do), but the service is quick and the food arrives fresh and there are long lines at its door every morning. The restaurant caters to all, from the well-heeled and wealthy to the decidedly middle class, with undifferentiated courtesy and efficiency. To be sure there are many other similar eating houses in the vicinity and elsewhere in Mumbai, but theirs, the Kamaths claim, stands apart. It is, they say, iconic.
